Tuesday, February 28, 2012

Township Series: Part Two

Mama Nosintho and I walked from the mini bus stop to her house. Along the way she stopped and talked to everyone we met along the way. I soon became lost trying to distinguish who was a cousin, who was a neighbor, or who was a kid she used to babysit. We passed several braais and each time the people standing next to the grill would wave and say “Molo unjani, Mama Nosintho- how are you?” And Mama would reply “Siyaphila – I am alive, I am well.”

We reached her house, a small grey stone house that was soundly built with a red sedan parked under a small palm tree. The tree had been a housewarming gift from some relatives after Mama and her husband moved there.

Mama's House.

Mama brought me inside and introduced me to her family. Her husband was away working and one of her children was old enough to have her own flat so it was the four youngest children living there at the moment. I was led to my room, which was about the third of the size of the average dorm room. Just a bed, a few feet of floor space and a shelf for some clothes. The other rooms in the house were equally as small and with tiny windows latticed with bars to prevent break-ins.

As soon as I put my clothes away, Sipho and Sango —the two boys—dragged me outside to play football. The ball they used was made of compressed newspaper held together by saran wrap. It wasn’t the prettiest ball, but it worked all the same.

Sipho


Sipho reminded me of a kid I used to babysit in New Hampshire. He acted shy when he first met me but when I left to go home he almost refused to stop hugging me. Sango tried to act more mature than his ten years of age. He wore a neon pink shirt, a baseball cap, and cutoff jeans —the typical hip/hop dress of the region.

“So what subjects do you like in school?”
“I like recess!” giggled Sipho.
“What about you Sango?” I asked the reserved ten year old.
“I like science and math but I’m not the best at those,” said Sango.
“Do you want to go into engineering after you graduate High School?”
“No, I want to be a doctor” Sango said sternly.



Sipho and Sango’s grandfather had recently suffered a stroke and had been in the hospital for the past month. He wasn’t making much progress. Despite the free medical aid South Africans receive, there was not enough staff or infrastructure at the township hospital for therapy and rehabilitation. If their grandfather stabilizes, passes all of his blood work and is able to stand, he will leave the hospital. He still isn’t able to hold a cup or eat his own food, but that form of therapy will come at home with the aid of his family.

Mama's sisters and mother tend to the grandfather.

The children aren’t allowed to visit their grandfather, so it is a raw subject. Like any child they realize that their grandfather is sick, but how do you tell a five year old or even a ten year old that a stroke means permanent brain damage? Or that if he is able to leave the hospital, it won’t be the same man that they have known their whole lives?













Monday, February 27, 2012

Township Series: Part One


Pieces of broken glass crunched into the sand under my feet as I walked. The air was dusty and smelled of garbage that was for too long neglected and left to rot by the side of the road. The sun is hot, burning my skin even through my clothes. Stray dogs wander through the streets looking for food and companions. This is the Africa that you see in publications like National Geographic and unfortunately it is still a sad reality in some areas of South Africa.
A stray dog wanders the streets in Langa Township.

The Townships were created under apartheid rule and were the places where black and colored people were forced to resettle after they were removed from their homes in Cape Town. These places did not disappear after the ANC took control of the country and many still live here.
Many homes are dilapidated. Others made of found items or metal sheeting placed haphazardly together. Some seem unsuitable to live in, but then you see the eyes of a small child peek through a window and you know that that hovel is still a home.
A home in Langa Township.

As soon as the children saw me, they started screaming at the top of their lungs “Umlungu!!! Umlungu!!! WHITE PERSON!!! WHITE PERSON!!!!” White people are a commodity in these parts. White people mean money.
The children held my hands and walked with me, all the while laughing and smiling. They looked at my fancy camera and begged me to take photos of them. I complied. Soon the numbers of children around me grew exponentially as they clamored to have their picture taken and then to see it on the LCD screen. Small hands kept pulling at me in all different directions, each wanting attention, each wanting me.
Children wave to a tour group in Langa Township.

The poverty here is immense. Yes there is running water, electricity and bathrooms, but the amount and reliability of these vary greatly. Many of the adults work in Cape Town for minimum wage. 20 US dollars could feed a person for a week. 20 US dollars is the equivalent of 160 Rand.
The children then are left to their own devices, even from a young age. Free from the supervision of adults, children start to get in trouble. This escalates until small pranks and indiscretions turn into felonies as they get older.
Not every family is like this though. Most are thrown into this situation due to poverty and it turns into a vicious cycle.
A child collects wood from used pallets in Langa Township.

Mama Nosintho was my guide to Tambo Village, a small section of one of the larger townships. She had five children in her family, a husband and a whole extended family to take care of while balancing a job to make ends meet. She was tall and wearing a light blue cotton dress the first time that I met her. Her hair was put in dreads that reached her shoulders. She was a bit rounder after having five children but was still in shape. Her eyes were a dark grey and framed by light freckles on her cheeks. She had deep dimples that emerged whenever she smiled, which was often.
I was in her care for the weekend. She was my guide. I was the lost traveler.
If you have never seen this type of poverty before, it really unsettles you. Forget the poverty that you see in the United States. Though those cases are hard to bear witness to, the miles of shacks in the sandy Cape Flats will amaze you. It will make you think of how all that you take for granted in the US would be a godsend to many people.
A view of Table Mountain from Langa Township. Langa is one of the closest townships to the mountain because during apartheid rule, the africans who resided there had the lightest skin and those who had lighter skin were placed closer to town and the mountain. People with darker skin were placed further away from the mountain.

Of course not everyone has this epiphany while visiting a township. The townships also serve as a tourist area where people ride in on minibuses, “ooh” and “ahhh” at the spectacle of poverty and return to their five-star hotels to have prawns and lobster for dinner.
It’s not fair, but nobody said life was.
…To be continued

Monday, February 13, 2012

Old Biscuit Mill

The Old Biscuit Mill is like the Ithaca Farmer's market... but on steroids!













Friday, February 10, 2012

Garden route misc


Our last day of the garden route trip consisted of going to storms river and hiking over a suspension bridge and boating/swimming in the indian ocean!








Saturday, February 4, 2012

I ate this (and did not throw up)

The fact that i am a picky eater is common knowledge. That being said, the food in the following images will shock you. and yes, i ate this and no i did not get sick afterwards. The food: a locale african cuisine called Smiley. 


It starts off with a sheep's head...

Then the wool and skin are burned off

then the head is boiled and ready for sale


These girls loved having their pictures taken



our guide cutting up the head